Ulrich Inderbinen: a guide, a legend, an inspiration

Theo le nez noir
Aug 27, 2024
3 min read

Updated: Oct 20

Photo : John van Hasselt - Corbis / Sygma via Getty Images

In the world of mountaineering, few names resonate as deeply as Ulrich Inderbinen. A man embodying the spirit of the Swiss Alps, Ulrich was more than just a mountain guide; he was a living legend, revered for his intimate knowledge of the mountains and his unwavering dedication to the art of climbing.

Ulrich Inderbinen's legacy goes far beyond the summits he has conquered. He was a man who lived in harmony with the mountains, and his influence continues to be felt in the world of mountaineering. Even after his death in 2004, Ulrich's spirit lingers in the hearts of those who had the privilege of climbing with him and in the countless people who were inspired by his story.

In Zermatt, where his journey began, Ulrich became a living symbol of the Alps. Guardian of the mountains, his life was shaped by these stone giants, and he left his mark on the lives of many individuals who were lucky enough to know him.

The last outfit of Theo, the mountain guide, was inspired by Ulrich Inderbinen, who died at the age of 103 in 2004. Ulrich has become a legendary figure far beyond his hometown of Zermatt, Switzerland, thanks to his extraordinary ability to climb and ski.

Ulrich remained an active mountain guide until the age of 95, making him one of the oldest guides in the world. Remarkably, at nearly 90 years old, he climbed the Matterhorn one last time on the 125th anniversary of the mountain climb in 1990, reaching the summit only four hours after leaving the Hörnli refuge.

Photo : J'ai l'âge du siècle Ulrich Inderbinen de Heidi Lanz / Liliane De Meester, editeur Rotten Verlag (1/1/1998)

Ulrich's fame increased after the publication of his biography in 1996, which became a bestseller in Switzerland and Germany and was translated into several languages. This newly acquired celebrity has attracted journalists and tourists to his door. Despite all this attention, Ulrich remained humble, continuing to live in the simple house he had built in the 1930s, cutting his own wood and never having owned a car, bicycle or even a telephone.

Known for his discreet charm, integrity and dry humor, Ulrich was loved by many. His reputation as a guide was not based on spectacular climbs, but on his stable, reliable and caring approach to climbing. His patience, modesty and impeccable manners made him a favorite among his customers, many praising his ability to inspire confidence even in difficult conditions.

Even in his last years, Ulrich has remained active, skiing until the age of 94 and participating in international ski races for guides. He approached death with the same calm and humor that marked his life, becoming a symbol of resilience and the lasting spirit of Zermatt's mountain culture. Ulrich Inderbinen's life is a testament to the power of simplicity, dedication and an unwavering connection with the mountains he loved.

Photo : Article Zeitlupe "Über 350 auf dem Matterhorn"

His dress code was practical, traditional and adapted to the demands of life in the mountains. As a guide, he wore functional and sustainable clothing rather than fashionable clothing.

Ulrich often dressed in thick woolen clothes, which were common among the mountain guides of his generation. Wool was preferred for its warmth, breathability and moisture wicking properties, making it ideal for cold and unpredictable mountain conditions.

His leather mountain boots often combined with thick wool socks, offered him support and protection on rough and icy terrain.

Photo : Bettman / Bettman via Getty Images

To protect himself from the sun and the cold, Ulrich wore an alpine cap or cap, made of wool or felt, typical for mountain guides in the region.

When guiding or climbing, Ulrich was equipped with essential climbing equipment, including ropes, harnesses and crampons, often tied or carried with his clothes.

He did not embrace modern accessories such as advanced climbing equipment or synthetic materials that became popular later in his career.

Ulrich Inderbinen's dress code was characterized by its practical, traditional and functionality-oriented side, rooted in the rugged mountainous environment where he lived and worked. Ulrich inspired the last outfit of Theo, the mountain guide.

Photo : Ullstein bild DT via Getty image Photo : John van Hasselt -Corbis via Getty image

The next time you contemplate the Matterhorn or walk through the Swiss alpine pastures, take a moment to think about Ulrich Inderbinen—a true mountain legend.